The Surfboard: A Book About Art, Style, Stoke, and Surfboard History
I picked up a book called “The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke” about 7 months ago, and when I got it I flipped through the pages briefly and set it on a coffee table, never to look at it again. I was hoping to get some creative ideas about how to paint one of my new surfboards, and after I decided how I wanted to paint the board I was done with the book. I always had it in the back of my mind that I wanted to read it and see what it was all about but never did until just recently.
“The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke” is written by Ben Marcus, who writes for Surfer, The Surfer’s Journal, and other magazines, and is all about the history of the actual surfboard. The book takes you on an intriguing trip through surfboard history. Compared with other surfing books that I own, I can say that “The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke” is very well written. Most the early surfboards talked about in the beginning are ancient Hawaiian boards, and the author tells a very accurate Hawaiian surf history while speaking about these boards.
The photos in the book keep you turning the pages as you look through it. The photos of actual surfboards are taken by Juliana Morais, and the boards pictured are from Fernando Aguerre’s collection of rare and historic surfboards. Other photos are taken by Jeff Divine, a very well known surf photographer and photo editor of The Surfer’s Journal.
Even if you don’t end up reading the book completely, once you pick it up and start looking at the pictures you’ll be drawn into flipping through the pages and reading the captions about the various boards. There aren’t many surfing books out there that focus on surfboard history, making this book a great addition to anyone’s collection.
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