The Surfing Blog

Summer time is almost here and that means it is time to start planning that summer surf trip. With so many different places to go, how can you decide the best location for you? We are starting a weekly “Surf Destination Spotlight” here at thesurfingblog that will help inspire you to travel to those places you have always dreamed about. So check back often to get the scoops on a new location. It’ll help get you through that week of work stuck in the cubicle.

To start off our Surf Destination Spotlight we want to spotlight the one and only reggae island, Jamaica.   Home to Bob Marley, Reggae, Red Stripe and great, un-crowded surf, Jamaica is a surf trip you will never forget. 

Jamaica is a great summer surf trip because summer is the season when it lights up with swell as the trade winds blow across the sea all day. You’ll want to wake up early during your trip to catch some early glass, as conditions can get choppier throughout the day. But just like California, you can catch glass off in the evening and even get lucky enough to have it all day sometimes. If conditions aren’t great, you can always take in the sites until they improve.

The standout spots in Jamaica are on the east side of the island, so you will want to fly into Kingston. Jamaica offers beach breaks, lefts, rights, hollow shallow reef breaks, A-frames, waves peeling through bays, etc. You will be able to find waves to suit your desires. If you want a more local take on where to go to score the best waves while you are there, make sure you contact Jamnesia Surf Club. The legend, Billy Mystic and his crew will show you an awesome time.

Jamnesia Surf Club is also the best place to stay while on the island (it is the only surf camp). Unfortunately, as kind as everyone can be, there is a dangerous side to Jamiaca too. Staying with the local surfers at the surf club is your best bet to scoring good waves and staying safe.  They will make you feel like long time friends from the moment you meet them.

If you want to venture off on your own and stay somewhere else, yet you want to still be close to the surf, you’ll need to stay in Kingston.  Not the safest place in the world, but there aren’t really any options outside of Kingston on the east side of the island.

If you don’t care about how luxurious the hotel is, you can stay for under $60 at places like:

- Hotel Sandhurst,  Olympia Crown Hotel,  Indies Hotel

If you have your wife and or kids with you, you might want to spend a bit more money on a nicer location.  Some places under $200 are:

- Terra Nova Hotel,  Goblin Hills Villa, Morgan’s Harbour Hotel

But make sure you consider staying with Jamnesia Surf Club.  It truly is your best bet for an enjoyable surf trip in Jamaica.

To get you excited about the surf Jamaica has to offer, here is a brief explanation of a couple main breaks in Jamaica.

- Boston Bay (picture to left) looks like it came out of the animated movie “Surfs Up”. Located in a beautiful bay setting, at Boston Bay you can go either right or left. And just like in the movie “Surfs Up” watch out for the urchins, they can be quite painful.

- Lighthouse is predominately a right and can be quite the high performance wave. When its going off you will definitely get barreled. The greatest part is the wave empties into a channel, providing for a nice and simple paddle back out into the lineup.

- Long Bay is another bay that will have you feeling like you are surfing a movie set. The wave more often breaks left, but you can find some rights too. On a good day the wave lines up nicely and you can score some long rides.

- Zoo is a great wave if you have the experience. It’s a little too heavy for the beginner. Zoo could easily be considered one of Jamaica’s best waves and therefore can have more of a crowd than other spots.

While you aren’t surfing there is plenty of Rastafarian, One Love, Jah Bless culture to take in. For hardcore reggae fans check out the Bob Marley museum and don’t miss the crazy tour guide who has the funniest laugh and smokes weed throughout the tour while singing Bob Marley songs. If nature is more your style, check out the rivers and waterfalls, zip lines, and ATV tours. There are tons of tours for all types of activities. You won’t be bored while you aren’t shredding waves.

Jamaican food is delicious. Local meals consist of ox tail, rice and peas (which really is rice and beans), brown stew chicken, plantains, fresh fruit, and the the world famous “jerk” style of cooking. Make sure you stop at the different Jerk Stands on the side of the road and get some jerk chicken or pork. It’s a uniquely spicy seasoning that you’ll love, and its not expensive. Also for a quick bite, you can stop at any gas station and pick up a Jamaican patty.  They are like an empanada, stuffed with different meats, and range from mild to hot. For beverages, while in Jamaica you have to drink Red Stripe beer. It’s the national beer. If you don’t want beer, you have to try Ting. It’s a grapefruit soda that comes in a glass bottle. They are both perfect post surf beverages.

You can find delicious Jamaican food at these restaurants in nearby Kingston

- Tastee Patties (cheap and quick)

- Gauchos Grill

- Norma’s on the Terrace

- Island Grill

But like I said, if you want to save money, buy from the local stands along the road.

So make sure you listen to your fill of Bob Marley and Buju Banton before you book your tickets so you can sing along to the reggae vibes. If you have been or are planning on going, leave your comments and let us know about it. One Love…Jah Bless!

If you are a local or just got back from a trip to Jamaica and want to add any content (places to stay, surf, eat, etc.) email us at editor@thesurfingblog.com.  Help your fellow surfers have a great trip. 

On April 20^th, 2010, an explosion on the oilrig Deepwater Horizon caused the rig to sink and the oil to start spewing into the sea, (hope you didn’t own stock in BP). Depending on who you ask, the amount of crude oil being deposited into the Gulf is anywhere from 5,000 – 25,000 barrels per day. That is 210,000 – 1,100,000 US gallons. That is a lot of oil. If you remember back to your 4^th grade science lessons, oil and water don’t mix. Not only do oil and water not mix but oil also doesn’t mix with the animals in and around the water, people who play in the water, and those who make a living catching animals that live in the water.

So how is the spill affecting those who live near the Gulf?

As the slick moves closer and closer to shore, beaches inevitably will be shut down. For surfers, when beaches are shut down, that means you can’t sleep at night because you have too much energy built up that you couldn’t get rid of while surfing. But even more unfortunate than not being able to surf for a couple weeks, is that as surfers, we love Mother Ocean. She provides us with waves that allow us to do the thing we hold so passionately to, surf. By the time the whole fiasco is contained, there will be 1,000,000+ gallons of crude oil floating around, destroying our lovely Mother Ocean. This is not good. Surfing Southern California after a rainstorm will seem delightful compared to surfing the oil-slicked waves of the Gulf. As surfers, we will need to do as much as we can to help in the efforts of cleaning the beaches we freely use and saving the wildlife that truly call the Gulf home.

Local businesses are already being affected by the oil slick. Those who fish the seas of the Gulf for fish, crabs, shrimp, oysters, etc. aren’t being allowed to go out and earn a living. Not only are they banned from fishing, but instead have been asked to help by setting out booms and other things to help contain the contamination.

An oil slick in the ocean probably has the largest impact on the marine life. Animals are defenseless as thick; crude oil invades their surroundings. Reefs become smothered, birds and fish become covered in oil not allowing them to fly or breathe and the ecosystem in general suffers. Unfortunately, the marine life in the Gulf of Mexico are going to heavily feel the impact of the oil spill.

What can we do as surfers to help?

A website, Deepwater Horizon Response, has been set up for those looking to stay up-to-date with news and volunteer information regarding the oil spill. They are looking for people who can lend a hand to help. If you have a boat, canoe, or just want to help out here is the list of hotline numbers you can call:

We welcome your questions or comments. Please note the following hotline numbers:

• If you are interested in volunteering, or know someone who is, please call the Deepwater Horizon Response Volunteer Request Line at 1-866-448-5816

• To report spill related damage claims, please call 1-800-440-0858

• To report oiled or injured wildlife, please call 1-866-557-1401

• To report oil on land, or for general Community and Volunteer Information, please call 1-866-448-5816

Call 281 366 5511 to submit all Deepwater Horizon Response suggestions.

As surfers it is important to step in and help. Your efforts won’t go unnoticed. We need to help protect and maintain the beauty of Mother Ocean. As we all come together and help clean and maintain the oil slick we will find greater appreciation for the ocean and the wildlife that live there. Lastly, the quicker the oil is cleaned up, the quicker we will be able to get back in the water and surf!

Thanks to Deepwater Horizon Response for organizing the efforts of those who want to help.

Unlike other organized sports, surfing doesn’t have a universal rulebook or referee system that enforces everyone to surf under the same rules (unless you are contest surfing).  There is nothing that anyone “has to” understand in order to participate.  In football you can’t play unless you understand the rules like offsides, out of bounds, illegal hits or that each team has four attempts to get a first down, etc.  In order to try surfing, all you have to do is buy a board and try to catch a wave.  There are no official fouls that cause you to lose yards or sit in the penalty box.  This is what makes surfing unique and special, but at the same time can make surfing frustrating.

I’ve compiled a list of things that can be considered the DON’Ts of surfing. You don’t want to do these things while in the lineup because they will either end in you having a bad session, someone yelling at you, someone sending you in, someone cracking you over the head, or someone getting hurt.

- Don’t paddle out in conditions you aren’t ready for.  This happens too often and is not only dangerous for the surfer paddling out, but for the other surfers also.  While it is good to have that desire to improve and get better at surfing, make sure you keep things in perspective.  I have personally paddled out and realized the waves were just too big for me and had to kick my pride and tell my friend (who was comfortable with the waves that day) that I didn’t feel comfortable and was heading in.  A bit embarrassing, but I’m alive to surf another day.

- Don’t paddle out with a crew of people.  This is a don’t you will want to follow before you are even in the water.  A crew is an unpleasant site for those who are already in the water.  Imagine you are out having a great time and you look to shore and see a crew of 4-8 guys about to flood the lineup.  If you paddle out with a crew you are automatically putting a sour taste in everyone’s mouth and no matter how good you surf or how respectful you are, they aren’t going to like you.

- Don’t disrespect the locals.  Love it or hate it, locals deserve respect in the lineup.  If you like to play basketball, would you drive to a basketball court across town and just start demanding to play?  No.  Surfing is no different. If you are new to a lineup, take some time to get a feel for the wave and the crowd and earn your spot at the peak.  You should start by surfing the shoulder for a while. There is nothing worse then a random guy coming out and acting like he owns the place.

- Don’t drop in on other surfers.  This is hopefully an obvious “don’t”.  If someone has caught a wave and you are paddling for it, stop paddling and wait for the next one.  Never drop in on another surfer.  This will keep both you and others safe.  If you drop in on others you are bound to get yelled at, sent in, or beat up.  Many times you will get all three.

- Don’t take all the waves.  It is not ok to catch a wave, paddle right back out to the inside of the pack and take the next good wave.  A pack of surfers in the lineup is like the DMV.  There is a lot of diversity and you have to pretend that everyone has taken a number.  Sharing the waves will allow you and everyone else to have a much more enjoyable session.

- Don’t get in the way.  If you just caught a wave and are paddling back out and another surfer on a wave is coming towards you, it is your job to get out of the way.  If you can’t get far enough down the shoulder you may have to paddle to the inside, straight at the white water.  Although this isn’t a favorable decision, it is the right one.

- Don’t make a ton of noise in the water.  Yes, surfers want to have fun while they surf, but nobody wants to hear that one guy who is super loud and annoying throughout the session.  There is nothing wrong with a hoot for a buddy getting barreled or smashing the lip, but don’t be a barney making a ton of noise throughout your session.

- Don’t let go of or ditch your board when duck diving waves. This is extremely important. If you have to let go or ditch your board while duck diving, you are out in conditions too big and shouldn’t be out there. This is an automatic way for other surfers to gauge your ability. If you do this you will be yelled at and sent it. Guaranteed. It is very dangerous because once let go of your board it flings towards other surfers and can cause serious damage.

In all, these rules of surfing will help you enjoy your session more and keep you safe.  What don’t you like seeing in the lineup?

If you want to run into pro surfers at night and eat some of the best Thai food of your life, luckily there is actually such a place that exists. It’s Haleiwa Eats in Haleiwa on the island of Oahu. Haleiwa is the place to go for dinner when you are staying on the North Shore, and Haleiwa Eats is every local’s favorite. You may love Thai food, but if it isn’t your favorite, don’t give up on trying it out. A few years ago when I was just visiting the island for a week with my family we were told that we had to eat at “Eats”, as it is known here. I think each one of us had a complaint or two about eating Thai food, but we listened to our friends and its now a family favorite. Another cool part though is that you almost always will run into all the biggest names in surfing, especially during contest season. I try to eat there a few times a month and without fail almost every single time I get to eat right next to my favorite surfers, both local and visiting.

Don’t think that I am some weirdo that gets star struck by seeing famous surfers; I’m really there for the food. It’s incredible. One thing you have to try is the coconut rice. It doesn’t matter what you order for your main course, coconut rice on the side is a must. If its your first time there, you now know you are going to get the coconut rice, and here are some of the most popular dishes to go with it: Panang Curry, Bangkok Night Noodles, Yellow Curry Noodles, Pad Thai, Cashew Chicken, Monsoon Shrimp, Pineapple Curry Shrimp and The Gulf of Thailand. Literally everything there is amazing. Every time I venture off of my usual picks and try something new I am thoroughly impressed. It doesn’t matter if you are choosing soups, noodles, meats, or seafood; the chefs at Haleiwa Eats know what they are doing. Check out their takeout menu right here, and don’t forget the fried coconut ice cream or fried bananas for dessert!

I’ve got to admit that there is one thing I hate about Eats. It is expensive, and the prices are always going up. I used to be able to eat for around $10 a few years ago, and now when you include tip it usually comes out to around $15 to $20. That is just for a simple meal, I’m being cheap and not getting drinks or desserts, so it can add up quick. I also think that sometimes the service is kind of slow. It never can annoy me too much though because the food is so good. Another thing you should know is that Haleiwa Eats does not serve alcohol, but they do allow you to bring your own.

If you are planning a surf trip to Hawaii, plan on stopping at Haleiwa Eats. It will most likely be the best place you pick for dinner throughout your trip. It’s easy to spot on the main road through Haleiwa, close to Matsumoto’s Shaved Ice, which is another spot you must hit, which we will be sure to write about later on. Eats is a tiny place with a small dining area and a couple of outside tables, but guaranteed to be drawing a crowd. Don’t worry; the waits are never too long.

I can’t tell you how glad I am that I downloaded this film on iTunes for $7.99 instead of purchasing the actual DVD for $29.95. Simply put, this surf movie did not live up to my expectations. Billabong’s “Still Filthy” was inspired by their 1988 release of “Filthy Habits”. The 1988 film started “a revolutionary formula that simply featured kick-butt surfing cut tightly to kick-butt music”. I don’t think that Billabong did a very good job of following that same revolutionary formula.

The surfing in “Still Filthy” has its moments, but all together it isn’t anything that special compared with other recent releases. Lee Wilson, Andy Irons, Shane Dorian, Wade Goodall, Joel Parkinson, and Taj Burrow are definitely the standouts in the movie. There is a section with little snippets of a ton of Billabong riders that don’t have their own sections and I think the surfing in this section is some of the best. While certain clips are unbelievable, like some of Taj and Wade’s aerials or Shane Dorian’s backside tubes at Cloudbreak, in my opinion this film didn’t top many of the other films already out there.

As for the second part of that formula, the soundtrack in “Still Filthy” is terrible. I know there will be those of you out there who like it, and for you, I’m sorry, but I don’t even think I can watch it again based on the soundtrack. It was the worst I’ve heard in a long time. The music did not draw me into the surfing at all, it was pretty much just obnoxious and I had to turn it down and just try to enjoy the surfing. The best way to enjoy this film is with the TV on mute and your iPod in hand. If you do it this way… maybe you will notice more spectacular surfing than I did.